Capriccioli beach is one of the most photographed stretches of coastline in Italy, and one of the few places that genuinely lives up to its reputation. Fine silver-white sand, water that shifts from emerald to deep turquoise depending on the hour, and a fringe of pink granite rocks smoothed by centuries of Maestrale wind: this is not marketing language, it is what the place actually looks like.
Located in the municipality of Arzachena, about 15 kilometres south of Porto Cervo, Capriccioli is not a single beach but a small granite peninsula that splits into several distinct coves, each with its own character, its own level of crowds, and its own reason to visit. This guide covers everything you need before you go: the three coves, how to get there without losing your mind in August, what to do on and off the water, and where to sleep nearby.
What is Capriccioli beach: location and character
Capriccioli belongs to the municipality of Arzachena, in the Gallura area of northeastern Sardinia. The beach sits inside the broader protected area of the Costa Smeralda, about 30 minutes by car from Olbia airport. A small granite peninsula divides the coastline into several coves, all framed by Mediterranean vegetation: juniper, mastic, maritime pine and wild rosemary.
The name itself tells you something about the place. Capriccioli in the local Gallurese dialect means “young goats,” a reference to the rounded, smooth granite boulders that populate the shoreline. These rocks have been shaped by wind and sea over millennia and give the peninsula its character: sculptural, sun-warmed forms that invite you to climb on them, jump from them, and use them as shade when the afternoon light shifts.
From Capriccioli East, the views are exceptional. Isola di Mortorio, Isola Soffi and the smaller Le Camere islets are visible just offshore. On a flat-calm July morning, the water between the beach and these islands is so transparent it looks shallow even where it reaches several metres of depth.
The beach is part of a marine protected area, which has a few practical implications: no taking sand or shells (a fine applies across all Sardinian beaches), no anchoring in posidonia meadows, no littering. These rules are enforced here, and the result is a seabed that is significantly healthier than most Italian beach destinations.
The three coves of Capriccioli
Most visitors only know one or two parts of Capriccioli. The peninsula actually shelters three distinct areas.
Capriccioli East (also referred to as the North beach) is the main cove: the one in every postcard. The sand here is fine, light-coloured with a slight silvery tone, and the water is very shallow for the first 20-30 metres from shore. Excellent for families with children. The water visibility is regularly above 10-15 metres, and you can see fish without even putting your face in the water. This is by far the most crowded cove. On a Saturday in August it fills before 10 AM. The Vesper Beach Club operates here, offering paid umbrella and sunlounger service and evening events. A simpler kiosk near the main access provides sandwiches, drinks and light meals at more reasonable prices.
Capriccioli West, also called Spiaggia del Pirata, sits on the other side of the granite peninsula, facing a different direction. Smaller and more sheltered, it has a small wooden pier from which you can rent dinghies, canoes and pedalos. The name comes from the restaurant “Il Pirata,” opened in 1963 by the Azara family, which is now part of Hotel Capriccioli. The West cove attracts a quieter crowd: those arriving by boat, and locals who know that the East cove is a different world in August. The water here is slightly deeper and the seabed more rocky than sandy, making it excellent for snorkeling along the granite walls.
Spiaggia delle Tartarughe (Turtle Beach) is the southernmost and wildest section, sitting at the very tip of the peninsula. A protected dune system and a small juniper thicket frame the sand, and during nesting season this is one of the few spots in the area where sea turtles come ashore to lay eggs. It is a genuine natural oasis, largely undisturbed. To reach it, return to the parking area and follow the lower path rather than scrambling over the rocks from the Pirata cove. The scramble is doable for adults without bags, but it is not convenient for families.
Sand, water and seabed
The sand at Capriccioli East is fine-grained with a silvery tone, not the brilliant white you find in some parts of southern Sardinia. It gets very hot under direct sun, so beach shoes or sandals are useful. The water is genuinely shallow for a long stretch from shore, which makes it safe for children and comfortable for anyone who wants to float and observe the seabed without fins.
The seabed transitions from sandy patches to granite rocks and posidonia meadows as you move out from shore. You will regularly see wrasses, sea bream, damselfish and various sea urchins without needing any specialised equipment. In the posidonia, patient snorkelers occasionally spot seahorses. Octopuses hide in the granite crevices along the rocks between the coves. The fish population here is healthier than at comparable beaches in Italy because the marine protected area status limits boat traffic and fishing pressure close to shore.
How to get to Capriccioli beach
There is no direct public transport to Capriccioli. No bus serves the beach, and no shuttle runs from Porto Cervo or Arzachena in any regular way during summer. A car is not optional here. The good news is that having a car opens up the entire Costa Smeralda: Romazzino, Spiaggia del Principe, La Celvia and Liscia Ruja are all within 15 minutes.
From Olbia airport: Take the SS125 towards Palau. After about 7 km, turn right onto the SP73 towards Costa Smeralda. Follow SP73 for 7.6 km to the San Pantaleo junction, then take SP94. After 8 km, follow signs for Cala di Volpe and Capriccioli onto the SP160. Total drive time: about 30 minutes outside peak hours.
From Porto Cervo: Head south on SP59 to the Abbiadori roundabout, then follow SP94 and SP160. About 15 minutes.
Parking: There are two paid car parks near the beach, both operating with a barrier system. They fill quickly. In high season, plan to arrive before 9:30 AM on weekdays, before 9:00 AM on weekends in July and August. The fee is €2.50 per hour or €12.50 for a full day. A second lot is located a 5-minute walk uphill from the beach: slightly less convenient, but almost always has space when the lower lots are full. Campers and motorhomes are not permitted in any of the Capriccioli parking areas.
Getting around: car rental near Capriccioli
The car rental advice here is simple and non-negotiable: book early. Summer rental cars in northern Sardinia sell out weeks in advance, and last-minute prices can be three or four times the forward-booking rate. If you are flying into Olbia, the airport has the widest selection and best prices.
You can compare and book directly from:
- Olbia Airport (OLB): DiscoverCars – Olbia
A compact car is sufficient for the coastal roads around Capriccioli. The SP160 and SP94 are well-paved but narrow in places, with occasional passing sections. Nothing that requires an SUV.
Things to do at Capriccioli: top activities
Capriccioli is the kind of beach where a full day disappears very fast. The surrounding waters and coastline add a range of activities on top of the swimming and snorkeling. Here are the best-reviewed options you can book directly.
Costa Smeralda Sunset Boat Tour with Sardinian Aperitif
A 4-hour evening cruise aboard a traditional gozzo boat, departing from Porto Rotondo. The tour moves along the Costa Smeralda coves, stops for swimming at spots only accessible by sea, and ends with an on-board aperitif of Sardinian wine, Ichnusa beer, carasau bread and local sausage as the sun drops. Small groups, consistently strong reviews across seasons.
Costa Smeralda Private Boat Tour with Snorkeling
A private charter for groups of up to 9 people, exploring the coves of Costa Smeralda with multiple snorkeling stops. Ideal for families or groups who want full flexibility over the itinerary and a dedicated skipper. Departing from Santa Teresa Gallura. Free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance.
Private Speedboat and Snorkeling Tour (up to 5 people)
A 7.5-metre speedboat for small groups, navigating between secluded beaches and wild islets, with stops to swim and snorkel in coves not reachable by land. Snorkeling gear included. Sardinian wine, cheese and carasau served on board. Over 90 reviews on Viator, flexible meeting point. This is the best option if you specifically want to reach Mortorio and Soffi.
Half-Day Guided Tour of Costa Smeralda from Olbia
A morning coach tour covering San Pantaleo village, the Costa Smeralda viewpoints and Porto Cervo marina, with hotel pick-up available from Olbia and nearby areas. A sensible first-day option if you want a structured introduction to the area before exploring independently. Duration: 4 hours. Multilingual audio guide included.
Small Group Costa Smeralda Tour: Porto Cervo and San Pantaleo
One of the most popular guided tours in northern Sardinia, with over 120 reviews on Viator. Half-day small group, covering San Pantaleo village, the Costa Smeralda coastal panoramas, Porto Cervo marina and Cala di Volpe views. Friendly, flexible guides. Hotel pick-up available from most properties in the area. Free cancellation.
North Coast Tour: Sea and History from Porto Cervo
A half-day land tour departing from Porto Cervo, combining the Belvedere viewpoint over Costa Smeralda, the stone village of San Pantaleo and the luxury marina. Good for those staying near Capriccioli who want a guided cultural experience without a long transfer. Hotel pick-up available on request.
For a comprehensive overview of water activities in the region, see our full guide to boat tours in Sardinia.
Beyond the beach: what to see near Capriccioli
The temptation to spend every day on the sand is real and completely understandable. But if you have three or more days in the area, the surroundings offer experiences that are worth the effort.
Arzachena and its nuragic archaeology deserve at least half a day. The countryside around Arzachena has one of the highest concentrations of Bronze Age monuments in Sardinia. The Nuraghe La Prisgiona, about 3 km from the town centre, is one of the best-preserved nuraghi in northern Sardinia, dating to approximately 1600 BC. The Tombe dei Giganti di Coddu Vecchiu, a few kilometres further, are monumental communal burial chambers from the same period, featuring a striking carved stone façade. These are genuine ancient monuments sitting in open countryside: granite rocks, macchia, low oak trees and absolute quiet. Entrance fees are modest and local guides are available. Full details in our Arzachena guide.
San Pantaleo is a small village about 15 minutes from Capriccioli, tucked at the base of a dramatic granite peak. It has a Thursday market in summer where local artisans sell ceramics, textiles and jewellery. The village square has several good bars and trattorias where you can eat Gallurese food, specifically suppa cuata (bread and cheese soup), malloreddus and local pecorino, at prices well below the Costa Smeralda level. The film “The Spy Who Loved Me” used locations here in the 1970s.
Porto Cervo is worth one visit on its own terms, even if the luxury context is not your scene. The marina is architecturally remarkable: the original buildings commissioned by Aga Khan IV in the 1960s and designed by local and international architects have a coherence and quality that holds up today. The Stella Maris church on the hill above the marina contains a canvas attributed to El Greco and is worth the short climb. Go in the morning before the yacht crowd arrives, or in the early evening when the light is dramatic. Our Porto Cervo guide covers the full picture.
Isola di Mortorio is the uninhabited island visible from Capriccioli East, sitting about 2 km offshore. You cannot reach it on foot or by any scheduled service. Several boat operators departing from the Pirata pier and from Porto Cervo run trips to Mortorio and the neighbouring islands of Soffi and Le Camere. The island has pristine beaches accessible only from the sea, natural granite pools, and birdlife including peregrine falcons. It is one of those Sardinian places that justifies the whole trip.
Best beaches near Capriccioli
The Costa Smeralda within 10-15 km of Capriccioli contains some of the finest beaches on the island. Knowing the differences between them saves time and frustration in August.
| Beach | Distance | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spiaggia del Principe | 2 km NE | White sand, very shallow, wild | Families, photography |
| Romazzino | 3 km NE | Sheltered, fine sand, calm | Young children, flat water |
| La Celvia | 500 m (walkable) | Compact, turquoise, less visited | Quick swim, locals in summer |
| Liscia Ruja | 6 km N | Long beach, light reddish sand | Space, walking, wind exposure |
| Grande Pevero | 4 km N | Wide, scenic, lagoon behind | More space in peak season |
| Cala di Volpe | 5 km S | Sheltered lagoon, hotel nearby | Scenic sailing, luxury context |
A practical note: La Celvia is walkable from Capriccioli East along a short coastal path. If the East cove is full, La Celvia is the fastest alternative. It is smaller but often less crowded precisely because fewer people know the walk.
For a broader look at the island’s coastline, see our guide to the top beaches in Sardinia.
Where to sleep near Capriccioli
Staying close to the beach is entirely possible across a range of budgets, though “reasonable” in this corner of Costa Smeralda still reflects the area’s premium positioning. Here are the best-reviewed properties within walking distance or a very short drive.
Hotel Capriccioli is the historic property on the hill directly above Capriccioli East, 50 metres from the water. Founded in 1963 as the restaurant “Il Pirata” by the Azara family, it grew into a full hotel over the following decades. The seawater pool, sea-view terrace restaurant serving Sardinian cuisine, and tennis court are genuine assets. Rooms with Tyrrhenian Sea views are the obvious choice for splurging. This is the premium on-site option, and the proximity to the beach is unmatched.
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Residenza Capriccioli is a self-catering residence with a seasonal pool, garden, children’s playground and gym, 100 metres from the beach. Apartments have kitchenettes, air conditioning and free parking. A solid mid-range option for families who want beach access without the full-service hotel price. The pool runs June through September. Reviews consistently praise the proximity to multiple beaches: from the property you can walk to Capriccioli East, Capriccioli West and La Celvia in under 10 minutes each.
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Le Case di Capriccioli is an apartment complex 5 minutes’ walk from the beach, with a pool and a large garden, built in the stone-and-granite style typical of the Gallura area. Self-catering units with private entrance, suitable for families and groups. Pets welcome. The property can arrange shuttle transfers to and from Olbia airport on request. A practical mid-range choice if you want independence and space without paying hotel prices.
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Green Park Hotel is located in the Arzachena area, about 6 km from Capriccioli and 1 km from Cala di Volpe. It has a pool, free parking and free Wi-Fi. This is the most affordable hotel option with a pool in the immediate area, suitable for those who want a quieter base with a short drive to the beach rather than sleeping in the middle of the resort zone. Staff are consistently praised in reviews, and breakfast is genuinely good. Fitting for Costa Smeralda, which rarely throws budget travellers a bone.
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The local perspective: what Sardinians think about Capriccioli
Those of us who live here have a slightly complicated relationship with Capriccioli. It is, without question, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. That is not sentiment, it is the reason hundreds of thousands of people visit every summer. But there are things the photos and the travel articles never mention, and knowing them changes your experience completely.
On wind and geography: Capriccioli East faces roughly northeast, sheltered from the dominant summer wind by the granite peninsula and the macchia behind the beach. On a classic Maestrale day, when the sea is rough and choppy at Romazzino or Liscia Ruja, Capriccioli East is often completely flat. This is not a coincidence: it is why the beach was originally chosen as a settlement point. Those who live here know this and use it.
The Pirata cove on the west side of the peninsula is less protected, more exposed to the southeast Scirocco. The Tartarughe beach at the very tip takes the most exposure from all directions. If the wind is your concern, ask which direction it is blowing and choose your cove accordingly.
On crowds and real timing: August on a Saturday at Capriccioli East is something you need to mentally prepare for. The parking lots queue before 9:30 AM. The beach fills to the point where moving around freely is difficult. The northernmost cove consistently attracts roughly 80% of all visitors, while the Pirata cove and the Tartarughe remain significantly emptier. Locals rarely go to Capriccioli East in August on a weekend.
The beach is there all year: we prefer La Celvia, the Tartarughe, or simply coming on a weekday in June or September when the crowds drop by more than half and the water is still perfect. If you are in Sardinia in the second or third week of September, Capriccioli East looks the way it does in the photographs.
On the Costa Smeralda’s architectural heritage: Capriccioli sits within the territory of the Costa Smeralda Consortium, the body created by Aga Khan IV after he purchased the coastline in the early 1960s.
The reason this stretch of coast looks the way it does, with no tower blocks, no neon signs, no concrete holiday villages, is the consortium’s strict code requiring all construction to use local stone, traditional forms and natural colours. It is one of the few Italian coastal development models that genuinely worked. Hotel Capriccioli predates the consortium by a few years, which explains why the original Pirata restaurant has a slightly more rustic, old-Sardinian character than the sleeker architecture that followed. That historical layer is part of what makes the place feel real rather than constructed.
FAQ about Capriccioli beach
How many coves does Capriccioli have?
Three main areas: Capriccioli East (also called North beach), the largest and most visited; Capriccioli West, also known as Spiaggia del Pirata, on the opposite side of the peninsula; and Spiaggia delle Tartarughe at the southern tip, the wildest and least crowded of the three. They all face different directions and have distinct characters.
Is Capriccioli beach free?
Access to the beach itself is free. You pay for parking (€2.50/hour or €12.50/day), and renting an umbrella and sunlounger from the beach service is optional. Bringing your own equipment is perfectly normal and common. The Vesper Beach Club operates a paid service with advance reservations for those who prefer full service.
Is there parking at Capriccioli? How much does it cost?
Yes. Two paid lots with a barrier system operate near the beach, at €2.50/hour or €12.50/day. They fill up fast in summer, often by 9:30 AM in July and August. A third lot slightly further uphill is a 5-minute walk from the water and almost always has space. Campers and motorhomes are not allowed at any of the Capriccioli lots.
What is the best time to visit Capriccioli?
June and September are optimal: warm water, manageable crowds and lower accommodation prices. In July, weekdays are very enjoyable. August is busy and parking is tight, but arriving before 9:00 AM on any day resolves most of the logistical issues. The second and third weeks of September are genuinely excellent and far too underrated.
Is Capriccioli good for snorkeling?
Yes, it is one of the best easily accessible snorkeling beaches on the Costa Smeralda. The water is shallow and very clear, the seabed includes sandy areas, granite rocks and posidonia, and the fish population is healthy because of the marine protected area status. No boat is needed. A basic mask and snorkel are all you require.
Can I visit Mortorio island from Capriccioli?
Yes. Mortorio is visible from the beach and accessible by small boat. Several operators departing from the Pirata pier and from Porto Cervo offer half-day and full-day trips to Mortorio, Soffi and Le Camere. The island has no permanent residents, pristine beaches accessible only from the sea, and natural granite pools. Book in advance in peak season as spots sell out.
Is there a beach club at Capriccioli?
Yes. The Vesper Beach Club operates on Capriccioli East, offering paid umbrella and sunlounger service, food and cocktails, and evening events during peak season. Advance reservations are strongly recommended in July and August. A simpler kiosk near the main access path serves drinks, sandwiches and light meals at more accessible prices.
- Why is Capriccioli so popular?
It is a collection of small coves surrounded by granite rocks and Mediterranean scrub, located in the heart of the Costa Smeralda region. - Are there other famous beaches nearby?
Yes, Capriccioli is very close to Cala di Volpe and the beautiful Prince’s Beach. - Is the beach suitable for families?
Yes, the water is very shallow and calm. It’s often listed among the top beaches in Sardinia for its accessibility and beauty. - Can I stay near Capriccioli?
There are several luxury villas and hotels in the area. Check our guide on where to stay in Northern Sardinia for more options.
Sources: Sardegna Turismo (sardegnaturismo.it), Italia.it, Arzachena municipal documentation, Costa Smeralda Consortium historical records, verified local knowledge.
